PATTERN HELP DESK™ · BONUS
The 10 Most Common Pattern-Reading Questions
Everything beginners (and even experienced knitters) get stuck on — answered once and for all.
1
What do all these abbreviations mean?
Every pattern uses shorthand. Here are the ones you'll see most often:
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- yo = yarn over
- inc = increase
- dec = decrease
- rep = repeat
- K = knit · P = purl (knitting)
Pro tip: Print this list and keep it next to your project. Within a few patterns, you'll know them by heart.
2
What does “repeat from * to *” mean?
Asterisks mark a section you need to repeat. For example:
*sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st* repeat from * to * around
This means: do sc in 2 stitches, then increase in the next one — and keep doing that sequence all the way around your work.
Pro tip: Place a stitch marker at the start of each repeat section so you always know where you are.
3
US vs. UK terms — why is it so confusing?
The same stitch has different names depending on where the pattern was written:
- US single crochet (sc) = UK double crochet (dc)
- US double crochet (dc) = UK treble crochet (tr)
- US half double crochet (hdc) = UK half treble (htr)
All patterns in The Great Knitting Catalog use US terminology by default.
Pro tip: Check the first page of any pattern — most will say "US terms" or "UK terms" at the top.
4
My stitch count is off — what happened?
The most common reasons:
- You missed the last stitch of the row (it often hides behind the turning chain).
- You accidentally worked into the turning chain when you shouldn't have (or vice versa).
- You skipped a stitch without noticing.
Pro tip: Count your stitches at the end of every row for the first 10 rows of a new pattern. It takes 5 seconds and saves hours of frogging.
5
Does the turning chain count as a stitch?
It depends on the pattern — and this is one of the biggest sources of confusion.
- For sc: the turning chain usually does NOT count as a stitch.
- For dc and taller stitches: the turning chain usually DOES count as a stitch.
The pattern should tell you explicitly. If it doesn't, check whether the stitch count at the end of the row includes or excludes the chain.
Pro tip: If you're using the Pattern Help Desk chat, paste the exact row instructions and ask — we'll sort it out in seconds.
6
What is gauge and do I really need to check it?
Gauge (or tension) tells you how many stitches and rows fit in a 4×4 inch (10×10 cm) square with a specific yarn and hook/needle size.
For accessories like bags or scarves? You can often skip gauge. For garments (sweaters, hats, gloves)? Always check it. A small difference per stitch multiplies across hundreds of stitches and can make your finished piece too big or too small.
Pro tip: Make a 5×5 inch swatch (bigger than needed), then measure only the center 4×4 inches. Edges tend to distort your count.
7
BLO, FLO — which loop do I work into?
Every stitch has two loops at the top (front and back). Normally you work through both.
- BLO (Back Loop Only) = insert hook under the back loop only. Creates a ribbed texture.
- FLO (Front Loop Only) = insert hook under the front loop only. Creates a different ridge.
If the pattern doesn't say BLO or FLO, work through both loops.
Pro tip: Hold your work with the top edge toward you. The loop closest to you is the front loop; the one behind it is the back loop.
8
How do I read a crochet chart/diagram?
Charts use symbols instead of words. Each symbol represents a stitch:
- ● (dot or small circle) = chain
- ✕ or + = single crochet
- T = half double crochet
- T with crossbar = double crochet
Read charts from bottom to top. Right-side rows read right to left; wrong-side rows read left to right. For rounds, read counterclockwise from the center.
Pro tip: Use a ruler or sticky note to mark the row you're working on. Move it up as you go.
9
Can I substitute a different yarn weight?
You can, but it changes the finished size and drape. Here's what to know:
- Going thicker (e.g., DK to worsted): project gets bigger, stiffer. Use a bigger hook.
- Going thinner (e.g., worsted to sport): project gets smaller, more delicate. Use a smaller hook.
Always make a gauge swatch with the new yarn before starting the full project.
Pro tip: If substituting yarn, buy one skein first to test. Don't buy the full amount until you've confirmed the gauge matches.
10
I made a mistake several rows back — do I have to rip it all out?
Not always! Your options:
- Frog it (rip back): pull your hook out and unravel row by row to the mistake. Best for major errors.
- Tink it (unknit stitch by stitch): undo one stitch at a time. Best for errors in the current or previous row.
- Drop down (knitting only): drop the column of stitches above the mistake and fix it with a crochet hook, then ladder back up.
- Leave it: if it's a small mistake in a textured pattern, it may not be visible in the finished piece. Professional designers call these "design features."
Pro tip: Place a lifeline (a thin yarn threaded through a correct row) every 10-20 rows on complex projects. If you need to rip back, you'll only lose rows above the lifeline.